Attention: If you have the new kit, then you are in the right place. You can recognise this by the fact that the 60 x 2 mm rectangular tubes are included in the kit. If you had 80 x 3 mm tubes in the package, then please click here.

In the following text, I would like to explain how you can build your own pellet torch with my fire tube kit. If you don’t want to buy the kit, you can of course get all the parts you need from a DIY store. It’s best to look at the steel pipe first, unfortunately this is only available in DIY stores.

Important notes for these assembly instructions

Please always pay attention to your safety when operating the fire tube. The safety of other people also has top priority. If you are unsure, don’t use it!

  • The garden torch must not be operated by minors.
  • Only set up the pellet torch on a firm and level surface.
  • Do not touch the torch during operation, risk of burns!
  • Wear heat protection gloves when refilling the pellet supply.
  • All flammable objects within a radius of 5 metres must be removed.
  • Do not light under roofs or in rooms
  • Provide a bucket of extinguishing water or a fire extinguisher to extinguish the garden torch in an emergency.
  • A fireproof container with water must be placed under the torch.
  • People must not come closer than 2 metres to the torch.
  • Check the glass tube and frame for damage before each use. Do not use if damaged

Tools for the construction of the fire tube

  • MAG or manual electric welding machine (electrode)
  • Angle grinder
  • Cutting disc and flap disc or roughing disc
  • Tape measure or ruler
  • Something to mark out, possibly a felt-tip pen
  • Drill with 10 mm steel drill bit
  • Hammer
  • Personal protective equipment (!)

Material list

  1. Pellet pipe long
  2. Pellet pipe short
  3. Ash box
  4. 3x legs
  5. Burner pipe
  6. Round pipe (this has been changed, now with 60° cut, new pictures will follow)
  7. Top cover
  8. Bottom cover
  9. Glass tube holder
  10. Glass tube support
  11. Burner grate

Video assembly instructions

Is in progress… :) Have a look at the video of the old kit on Youtube. Only the spacer for the burner tube should be 25 mm here.

Build your own Pellet Torch

Firstly, all parts must be completely deburred. Take a file and remove all sharp edges from the pipes so that you cannot cut yourself. Optionally, you can roughly clean all the pipes with a cloth. No cleaning agent is required. Assembly starts with the two pellet pipes only. These are pushed together at the 15° angles and welded. The weld seam can, but does not have to be sanded.

We need a burner tube so that the wood gas produced during operation can be channelled into the glass tube. This is drilled with a drill. I do this by eye. Two holes with a diameter of 10 mm on each side at the top and bottom. The holes are also deburred afterwards.

Now we make the transition from the wood gas to the burner pipe. To do this, we take the pellet pipe welded in the first step and an approx. 25 mm thick spacer. I use a piece of old sheet metal or wood for this. The spacer is placed on the pellet pipe and the burner pipe on top. As in the picture.

If you look closely, you can see that I have marked the outline on the top and sides of the pellet tube with a felt-tip pen. If the felt-tip pen doesn’t stick properly, the area needs to be cleaned again with a cloth. Next, I cut along the lines with the angle grinder. But be careful. The cut-out must be smaller than the burner tube. Cut about 2 mm smaller so that the burner tube still fits on the pallet tube. First cut off everything at the front that protrudes beyond the burner tube:

Then the rest. Here you can see that the cut-out opening is smaller than the line drawn.

To attach the burner pipe to the pellet pipe, first reinsert the spacer. When aligning, make sure that the burner pipe and the pellet pipe are parallel and that everything looks like a single piece. Now you should connect the whole thing with a few staple points. I don’t recommend large-scale welding here. A few tacking points are completely sufficient. If you want to do this again later, a weld seam would be disruptive.

To keep the pellets burning nicely while you sit in the garden with a cool drink, you need a kind of burner grate. This ensures that the fuel is well aerated and that sufficient wood gas can flow upwards into the glass. To install the burner grate, take the perforated plate and tack it in place as shown. Then remove all protruding parts. Note that you must leave approx. 25 mm protruding to the front. The protruding piece is knocked over with a hammer.

This design ensures that the burner is closed at the front.

The next step is to insert the ash pan. This can be completely welded, as the weld seam will be visible later. Make sure that the pointed edge at the front does not protrude beyond the burner tube, otherwise the round tube cannot be fitted straight later.

Next, we take care of the holder or support for the heat-resistant glass tube in which the flame will later burn. There are two rings in my kit, one of which has to be cut open. An approx. 3 cm wide piece is cut out of the ring. When the ring is pressed together, it should fit into the round tube.

As the ring now behaves like a spring, the glass tube can be optimally aligned. The fire tube works best when the glass tube is as low as possible. The ring should therefore be positioned approx. 1 cm above the glass tube. To prevent the ring from slipping, it is fixed in place with a few dots from below, i.e. from the side with the stanchion.

The pipe is then connected to the pellet burner. Slide the round pipe onto the burner pipe and align it as precisely as possible. It is important that the round pipe and pellet pipe run parallel.

Now there are only a few more steps to completion. We attach the other ring to the top end of the pellet pipe so that the glass pipe is also held at the top. Here, too, it is important that everything is aligned. Now try CAREFULLY with the glass tube to see if everything fits. But be careful and avoid hitting the glass.

To ensure that the fire tube stands optimally on your patio, you still need feet. Get the round bars and a spacer of approx. 6 – 10 cm. For example, a square timber or something similar. Place the construction on the spacer and start attaching the feet.

Viola, that looks great! Now all that’s missing is the lid. We use the small flat bars for this. Drill a 10 mm hole in the smaller one. Then place the two sheets on top of each other and weld them together through the hole using a strong welding current. This is called hole welding.

All points of contact between the steel and glass are now masked with oven tape. At the bottom of the ring, three strips are simply glued over the ring. This ensures that the glass tube is optimally positioned. With other models, the glass tube is often slightly askew. This cannot happen here.

Das Feuerrohr kann nach Belieben lackiert werden. Dazu sollte Ofenlack verwendet werden. Bitte beachte, dass die Fackel bei Lagerung im Freien etwas rosten kann. Um das Gerät anzufeuern, wird das Pelletrohr mit handelsüblichen Pelletfs gefüllt. Anschliend sollte das Feuerrohr auf einer Feuerfesten unterlage platziert werden. Achtung: Keinesfalls auf einer Holzterrasse betrieben, die wird danach hinüber sein. Falls du noch Hilfe zum Zünden benötigt, auf Youtube gibt es Zahlreiche Videos, die den Prozess erklären.

For those who are curious, here is a short FAQ: